Into the Wilderness and Nomadic Life

I decided to take a trip to the Semi Gobi Desert which included a visit to the ancient capital of Kharkhorin and the Erden Zuu Monastery which houses the temple of the Dalai Lama. The Mongolian Dalai Lama that is. This was to be followed by dinner with a Nomadic family and a night sleeping in a Gur, the traditional Nomadic tent.

Information is often scant when arrangements are made, so I had no idea how many people would be on the tour, what the accommodation would be like, or the food, or most importantly the toilets. I know that toilets in these parts usually consist of a hole in the ground surrounded by wooden planks and sometimes with a bucket of water. However I also knew that water is scarce on the steppe. As it was only one night, preventative Imodium was my solution (and it worked !).

With no idea who I would be travelling with, I was met at my hotel and taken to the van where I met Carlos, the Brazilian fellow who I travelled with the day before. We were told that we had to wait a few minutes for two Japanese travellers who were running late. Japanese late ?

Carlos and I struck up a more meaningful conversation than the day before, and found many common interests and experiences. This was a good omen for a trip which would be quite short, but full of challenging experiences.

And then the girls arrived….Yes the girls. Tomo and Yuki are two charming Japanese women who have an excellent command of English, have lived and worked overseas, and are fully accustomed to international ways. Indeed Tomo lived in Bangkok for some years and studied at Ruamrudee International School. The Group “gelled” immediately which was important as we would be living in close proximity for around 36 hours.

Our route would take us out of Ulaanbataar in a westerly and southerly direction towards Kharkorin. This was a long drive but it was the Mongolia that I wanted to see.

The landscape did vary in its detail. If you took a zoom lens, certain features were reminiscent of Ilkley Moor, Dartmoor or Scotland. However, zoom out and the vastness is truly impressive.

Lunch was at the Mongolian equivalent of a motorway service station (but no gasoline, that is sold elsewhere). Clean toilets and mutton noodles. I was starting to learn that portions in Mongolia are huge.

Our road continued towards Kharkorin, and the wild and vast steppe started to give way to glimpses of snow capped mountains, which came as a surprise as I thought that the mountains were to the North. Semi desert in the foreground and snow capped peaks in the distance.

And on to Kharkorin. When we arrived at the museum car park I asked the guide about some ancient looking vans which reminded me of Cold War cartoons of Soviet vehicles. Sure enough these small vans (not sure of the name), which are ubiquitous, do date back to the Communist (read “Soviet” era). They were originally military vehicles, but hundreds survive and work in the tourism industry. The reason for their survival is that the design and engineering is so basic, that they can easily be repaired. Parts are simple and can be quickly manufactured. Reminded me of the story about the Americans spending millions on a ball point pen that would work in zero gravity outer space, and the Soviets used a pencil.

The Kharkorin Museum and excavation site was moderately interesting but covered a lot of the same ground as the Ghinghis Khan Museum the day before.

However, the Erdene Zuu Monastery was truly impressive. A restoration and not a reconstruction. Around 20 Tibetan Buddhist Monks live and work in the monastery. I was aware from my trip to Tibet that there was a Mongolian Dalai Lama, but as in Tibet, China has been interfering over the choice of re-incarnations.

Next Up…..Into the Semi Gobi Desert, Communal Living in a Gur (Nomadic Tent) and Camel Riding

Ghinggis Khan, Nomads and the Terrelj National Park

The day started with indifferent weather to say the least. Drizzle, cloudy and cold.

I was met by my driver, Dorj, who spoke very good English and was full of energy and information. I joined a small group as a personalized minder / fixer is prohibitively expensive. And in a small group you can meet interesting people.

In the group was a retired Indian / US couple and the husband studied at LSE at the same time as I was at King’s College. After university they moved to the USA where he built a career on Wall Street and subsequently in journalism. There was a petrochemical engineer from Brazil, Carlos, and two German ladies.

Our route took us firstly to the Ghinggis Khan Museum. This boasts the largest equestrian statue in the world, Standing at 40m in height, the stainless steel statue sits on top of a very well presented museum which glorifies the exploits of the Mongol Empire. Their achievements were truly impressive and Mongolian history has been re-written since the collapse of communism. During the communist period National Pride was off limits. The pendulum has swung the other way, that’s for sure.

After the Museum, it was time to go off road and meet the Nomads. The fellow who we met was once the All Mongolia Horse Riding Champion, something about the 32 km class. We were welcomed with goat’s cream, bread, yak milk cheese, vodka made from distilled fermented horse milk, goat milk and snuff. A very friendly welcome and the delicacies were interesting and quite enjoyable. The snuff was a bit like the balms that one sees in Thailand – menthol and Tiger Balm. The vodka was smooth and not very strong.

After an indifferent lunch which was badly delayed (4 vegetarians in the group of 6 with a menu consisting exclusively of meat dishes, which was a bit of a stuff up), we headed to the Terrelj National Park which afforded some spectacular views.

The return journey to Ulanbataar was not too bad as the traffic in the city was only moderate to bad, which by local standards is excellent.

The Mongolian Adventure – On the Road Again

An early start and a straightforward journey to Suvarnabhumi. Checkin smooth enough and had some coffee and snacks in the lounge.

Flight left on time and arrived in Hong Kong ahead of schedule. A short stopover but quite a hectic transfer from Gate 40 to Gate 20. A 2km walk with no baggage trolleys and a heavy camera backpack. Also a leather jacket in anticipation of the cold of Mongolia.

On to Air Mongolia and an ancient B737. Very cramped but at least I got a window seat and glimpses of the Gobi Desert and the famed Mongolian Steppe.

Ghinghis Khan International Airport is efficient but as small as Hong Kong is gigantic. This photo shows the entire MIAT fleet at the airport.

Enjoyable journey from the airport to Ulaanbaatar and then the problems started. Absolutely hopeless traffic !! Three hours from the airport to my hotel. This caught me by surprise and the worst thing is that nobody seems to be doing anything about it. Lots of road rage and accidents.

First impressions of Ulaanbataar not positive. Quite drab and surprised to see huge coal powered power plants belching out pollution so close to the city centre.

After a later than expected arrival at the hotel it was time for a local beer and some noodles before bed. The Nomado Boutique Hotel is quite an eccentric hotel with, it seems different themes. I was in the Ghinghis Khan China Conquest theme, with a clean but small room. Super shower though – high pressure and very hot.

Breakfast the next morning was adequate and what was needed for a day of travel when the timing, location and content of the next meal would be uncertain.

As I left the hotel to go on my tour I noticed a room down the corridor….I wonder what it is like behind the door to room 316

Next Up….The Ghinggis Khan Museum, Meeting Nomads and the Terelj National Park

Mongolia…A New Adventure

Fed up of the rainy season and unable to travel anywhere as most countries in the region are facing monsoons and typhoons, I was both inspired and frustrated by Michael Palin’s North Korea Journal. So when I got to my desk I looked at the map and found Mongolia. With little hope I looked into visa and other regulations and it turned out that there are none. A far cry from the Soviet Days. That was last Friday and tomorrow morning I fly to Ulanbataar !